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The Price of Profit: Uttarakhand’s Tourism trade-off

Vidushi Dobhal Naithani & Aditya Thapliyal
March 4, 2025 |

Ever since its inception, Uttarakhand has branded itself as a promising and world-class tourist destination. The Uttarakhand Vision 2030 document identifies tourism as the “growth driver” of the state as the industry generates significant livelihood for the state's residents. 

With a unique combination of natural beauty and spiritual importance, the state has the potential to cater to pilgrimages, theme-based getaways, adventure holidays and even eco-tourism. The number of tourists visiting the state has been on a steady rise for the past decade, with 20.02 million tourists visiting the state in 2021. Right before Covid, the number had touched the two-decade highest mark with a yearly inflow of 39.23 million visitors during 2019-20. The number is again steadily rising, as observed in the past three tourist seasons in Uttarakhand. 

Having said that, however, recent observations have also highlighted concerning trends regarding the environmental sustainability of such sites, since the increased influx of tourists threatens the region’s ecological and cultural sanctity. Immense traffic congestion, vehicular pollution and waste management crisis significantly put into question the carrying capacity of the state’s tourist spots and the number of tourists that visit them. 

The waste generated during peak tourist seasons increases significantly per municipality and surpasses the infrastructure required for proper waste disposal and treatment. Using observations of the Rudranath Mandir trek as a focal point, this article examines the current impact of unregulated tourism on eco-sensitive zones in Uttarakhand. It reflects on the state’s tourism policies, exploring the potential of sustainable tourism and development solutions.

Rudranath Mandir: A Sacred Site Under Pressure

On October 6, 2024, Aditya, a resident of Dehradun and a mariner by profession, trekked to Rudranath Mandir — the fourth Shiva temple in the Panch Kedar circuit. The following is a firsthand observation of the alarming situation in the sacred region: 

“The trek to Rudranath begins at Sagar Village in the Chamoli district of Uttarakhand. The trek spans a challenging hilly terrain with a crucial midway point at Lwiti Bugyal, where amenities such as basic accommodation and food are available. The next accommodation and amenities are available near the Rudranath Mandir, a difficult 11-kilometer trek ahead of Lwiti Bugyal. I was informed that although the stretch once had food and accommodation facilities, they have now been removed owing to the eco-sensitivity of the region.

The number of visitors alarmed me as I prepared to spend the night at Lwiti Bugyal. What concerned me more was the disregard of the visitors for the ecological and spiritual importance of the region. It was evident that spirituality and the love for mountains and trekking had taken a backseat among the ‘like-thirsty’ influencer generation who could only appreciate their surroundings for the likes and followers it would garner on social media platforms. 

As the inflow of visitors exceeded the number of beds available, the visitors were crammed into limited spaces in tents. With the carrying capacity exceedingly evidently, the burden on available amenities was visible the next morning, too. Limited and unusable sanitation facilities and a poor state of hygiene made open defecation around the region a common practice. It is an ethical and well-practice among trekkers worldwide to carry a shovel, which is used to dig a pit for defecation in case facilities are not available during the trek. The sight around the camps narrated a different and disturbing story. 

As I trekked to Rudranath temple the next morning, the site was no different, rather more disturbing. Scattered plastic and human waste were visibly evident. So much so that the stench became unbearable as I approached the temple. The utter disregard of the visitors and, more importantly, the locals, made me feel sorry for the condition of cleanliness in the temple and the trek leading to it. 

At the start of the trek, Rs 100 is charged by the forest checkpost as a security deposit for carrying plastic items for the trek uphill. The officials count the number of plastic items each visitor carries at the start of the trek. As per regulations, these items must be checked upon their return, but the implementation remains lax. Moreover, people don’t even bother to reclaim the Rs 100-deposit, considering it a trivial amount.

With the promotion of the trek on social media, the number of visitors rapidly increases, consequently exceeding the sensitive area's carrying capacity. The issues around waste management, sanitation, and overall site management require immediate redressal. It pains to witness the holy temple of the Panchkedar being reduced from an auspicious pilgrimage to a mismanaged and disregarded tourist site.”

Tourism in Uttarakhand: Challenges

Uttarakhand’s tourism policies have historically sought to balance the state’s natural appeal with its religious significance. Since the establishment of the state in 2000, policies have aimed to develop an infrastructure to support both pilgrims and tourists. The Char Dham road project is a contemporary example.

However, policy implementation has many times prioritised economic gains over environmental concerns. Recent policies have not kept pace with the exponential growth in tourist numbers, which is fuelled by social media popularity, creating a situation where environmental stewardship takes a back seat. Tourism in Uttarakhand, particularly sacred sites such as Rudranath, reflects a complex blend of religious and recreational motivations, making it increasingly difficult to differentiate pilgrimage from tourism. 

The state's tourism policy during 2018 was set with the guiding principle of “aggressive marketing” and branding strategies to promote Uttarakhand as a promising tourist destination. The policy did talk about sustainable tourism and addressed that the challenges associated with waste management and civic management during the Char Dham Yatra required intervention. The strategies initiated in 2018, including celebrity endorsements and social media campaigns, have significantly boosted tourist numbers to the extent that it distorts the ability of the state administration to manage the inflow. 

This surge in popularity, amplified by influencers and limited formal guidelines, has exposed gaps in the state’s tourism management. Information about Rudranath, for instance, is restricted to basic details on the GMVN website, leaving social media as the primary source for planning treks. While FAQs for trekking and religious tourism exist, they focus on logistical details such as equipment, network coverage and registrations but lack environmental or behavioural guidelines. The absence of robust visitor education and clearly enforced policies has contributed to the challenges of balancing cultural reverence and sustainable tourism practices in the state. 

In the midst of all this, the state has continued to market itself as a lucrative tourist destination. By leveraging spiritual as well as scenic sites such as Trijuginarayan, Rishikesh and Nainital, the state also brands itself as a promising wedding destination. In March 2024, in a judgement regarding the illegal felling of trees in Jim Corbett National Park, Supreme Court Justice B R Gavai had expressed concern over the mushrooming of resorts in the tiger reserve as a response to the area turning into a sought-after wedding destination. The lavish Gupta weddings, which took place in 2019 at Auli had also sparked controversy and the need to balance sustainability with economic benefits after the weddings were reported having generated 24,000 kg of solid waste, which required extensive cleaning efforts by the concerned municipality. 

Despite such concerns, repeated iterations by local and national leadership point towards the ambitious plan Uttarakhand has embarked upon to enhance its tourism profile. A comprehensive policy to develop Uttarakhand into a robust wedding destination was mentioned by the CM in the Uttarakhand Investment and Infrastructure Development Board meeting in December 2024. The state has also recently initiated the Winter Char Dham circuit to combat the overcrowding of pilgrims during the peak Char Dham Yatra season. It also opens pilgrim tourism for Uttarakhand throughout the year. 

Without a motivated effort to include ecology and culture in such strategies, the long-term sustainability of these models needs to be put to question. In 2023, the state revised its tourism policy for 2030, which acknowledges Uttarakhand as “environmentally-sensitive” and a “land-scarce” region. With the aim to promote a high-value-low-value tourism, the policy does align with the principles of sustainable tourism in theoretical foundations and approach. The policies in force are yet to reflect the same commitment. 

Sustainable Tourism: The Way Forward

The deterioration of Rudranath Mandir and other eco-sensitive sites in Uttarakhand reflects a broader challenge of balancing tourism and sustainability. By adopting stricter visitor management practices and a focus on community engagement, Uttarakhand can ensure that its sacred and tourist sites remain preserved for future generations.

In addition to the existing policy structure, the state requires a comprehensive assessment of the carrying capacity for each district and tourist spot. The parameters must include the availability of civic amenities, waste management infrastructure and the region's ecological, physical, and managerial capacity. Setting daily caps on visitor numbers and proper regulation of private vehicles can also aid in preventing overcrowding and enhancing management efficacy.

Social media must be used not just to promote the state as a desirable tourist destination but also to cultivate community awareness and mutual respect among the locals and visitors, thus ensuring a beneficial and satisfactory experience. 

It is also imperative to question whether the substantial revenue generated during Uttarakhand’s tourist season is retained within the local economy. Given the relatively lenient land laws, many hotels, resorts and tourism-related service providers are owned and operated by individuals from outside the state. This situation also poses the concern of the swayed economic benefits that the local communities receive. 

The Uttarakhand Vision Document of 2030 also mentions the presence of a significant literary rate (78.82%), yet prevailing unemployment in the region. The rate of unemployment among educated youth is 17.2%. Tourism can act as a significant solution, given that this workforce is used to develop an aware and conscious workforce, including tourist guides, drivers and entrepreneurs who can become the first point of contact for tourists, while upholding and channelling tourists’ respect towards the Devbhoomi. 

Conclusion

The state seems to be experiencing a vicious cycle of growing tourism, insufficient profit-making for the locals and irreversible ecological deterioration. This reiterates the inefficiency and implementation gaps in Uttarakhand’s current systems. 

Uttarakhand accommodates the capability of catering to a diverse tourism market. The state administration is not wrong in leveraging this potential. However, the commitment for holistic tourism does not end with the establishment of infrastructure for the benefit of tourists. Sustainable tourism must be understood as a holistic approach that goes beyond economic gains and increasing visitor numbers while prioritising long-term environmental, social, and cultural preservation. The state cannot flourish and depend on the mere exploitation of its scenic beauty and natural resources. It is the fragile mountainous environment and the locals who are left to bear the long-term consequences of unmanaged tourism. 

References

The Times of India. (2023, May 26). As summer tourism surges, waste generation starts mounting in hills. https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/dehradun/as-summer-tourism-surges-waste-generation-starts-mounting-in-hills/articleshow/100560060.cms

Uttarakhand Tourism Development Board, Government of Uttarakhand. (n.d.). Tourist Statistics from 2000 to 2020 of Major Tourist Destinations. https://uttarakhandtourism.gov.in/sites/default/files/document/type/Tourist%20Statistics%20from%202000%20to%202020%20of%20Major%20Tourist%20Destinations.pdf

Uttarakhand Tourism Development Board, Government of Uttarakhand. (n.d.).  Tourist Statistics Year 2021 of Major Tourist Destinations. https://uttarakhandtourism.gov.in/sites/default/files/document/type/Year%20Statistics%202021%20PDF.pdf

Shyamal, D., Sawai, A., & Kazmi, A. (2022). A review on the urban municipal solid waste management system of an Indian Himalayan state. Journal of Material Cycles and Waste Management, 24(3), 835-851.

Department of Planning, Government of Uttarakhand. (2018). Uttarakhand Vision 2030. 

Government of Uttarakhand. (2023). Uttarakhand Tourism Policy 2030.

Vidushi Dobhal Naithani is a Junior Research Fellow and Doctoral Candidate at Hemvati Nandan Bahuguna Garhwal University, focusing on development in Uttarakhand.

Aditya Thapliyal is a Mariner by profession and a conscious trekking enthusiast.

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